Tuesday, May 27, 2014

THE SILENCE OF THE LAMINGTONS

Australia’s  answer to  Britain's   famous  seadog , Lord Nelson, correspondent  Peter Burleigh , and  his  caulking  consort , Lady  Judi ,  have  been missing  for  yonks  , feared   captured  by  the  Spanish  as  they crossed  the  English Channel  to  get  their  cruiser , The  Butterfly , out  of  mothballs  in  France  .  Semaphored  under  great  difficulties  and   at  extreme  expense ,  Pete  breaks  his  silence.  




  Burleigh  love  boat  embraced  by  French  cradle

 
When explorers go missing, the public expects they have been distracted by an insurmountable challenge – for example, climbing Mt Kilimanjaro one-legged, on a pogo stick – but in this case it’s a combination of unnatural elements which   has  caused  our  silence.

 First, a knot of Arctic weather positioned itself above our canal-boat base in St Jean de Losne and second, we are going through the slow process of making the boat water-worthy. Third, we cannot pick up the Wifi signal in the marina and cannot communicate except by drums or carrier pigeons. So we were not as lost as you might have thought, merely technologically and meteorologically challenged.

 SPRING  HAS  NOT  SPRUNG 

 
Instead of  the warm  Spring welcome we expect, we  are blown into the boatyard under a low ceiling of rainclouds. Our first job was to prime and paint anti-fouling on the bottom of the hull and repair several scars above the waterline, caused last year by lock gates and walls leaping out at the boat without warning and savaging the paintwork, but days pass in a fast-forward weather mode: 30 minutes of light rain, 30 minutes of overcast, 30 of high wind, 30 of sunshine, 30 minutes of heavy rain, then 30 of the above, randomly combined…and so on, preventing us from working outside. 

Observing  this  from  my position lying under the boat, and participating in the weather by allowing rain to run down my neck, I realise that Michelangelo had it very easy in the Sistine Chapel. Mike had a roof. He was out of the weather. His paints were not made from the most carcinogenic chemicals known to man. The Chapel ceiling did not require anti-fouling. His foreman was the Pope, who was required by the Commandments to be nice to him.

 SINFUL  BOTTOM  LINE  THOUGHTS

Despite a boilersuit, gloves, hood, goggles and mask I feel the mutations occurring in my blood and brain as the anti-fouling goes on. Three coats of it. Thick, syrupy stuff, probably radioactive as well as everything else, attacking the lungs and bone marrow and very hard to get off the skin; after trying steel wool, white spirit and acetone amputation seems an easier solution.  The foul fumes bring on fantasies. Lying on the cold gravel clutching my paint roller and staring at the bottom of the hull, I wonder if every boat is indeed a ‘she’, whose bottom would I prefer to be painting?

 My imagination tries Angelina Jolie’s (too much plastic) and Janet Jackson’s (wrong hue) and ends with Mother Theresa’s, which finished off  that line of speculation. Eventually her bottom (the boat’s) was adorned in a beautifully smooth, vibrant Varicose Blue. Judi’s deft turn with filler, brush and sandpaper concealed the bumps and grinds. The annual search for spots of rust must wait for better weather.
 
KILLER  CAT

The boatyard at night is a creepy wilderness of deserted boats and shredded tarpaulins snapping in the wind. Staying on board is possible, but to climb down the ladder and go to the outdoor WC at 2am is not pleasant. This year we rent a tiny cottage in the yard and enjoy its Sistine benefits – a roof, a fridge, a kind of kitchen, heating and no ladders. You can read a chronology of its past inhabitants by the layers of dirt in its corners, like the rings in a treetrunk. For all that it is fun, and a kind of luxury. The dominant Tomcat in the yard visits regularly, ready to fight intruders both feline and human. Both his ears are bitten off, so there must be an even tougher cat around, probably named Tyson.
 

After 10 days we are lowered into the Burgundy Canal by crane. No matter how many times we do this, there are moments of sheer aghastness as the boat swings perilously close to the concrete wharf. The voyage from the wharf to the marina is at least 800 metres, and here we still lie, watching a new galley cupboard and stern hatch being installed, and standing by to replace a fridge which flattens the boat batteries overnight. A plate in our gearbox is (apparently) in Dijon for re-drilling and refurbished connectors. The mechanic told us he would not let us leave, as the part may have failed at any moment. As we are considering a trip down the Danube, a major engine breakdown in that river’s strong current would be a MAYDAY event…and do the Albanians recognise the MAYDAY signal?

 BAD  APPLE, TASTY LOBSTER ,  FRIG  MYSTERY  

The lack of Internet access again reveals how dependent we are on our computers. After a week I get the twitches. Judi goes through the security fence to sit on a plastic chair in the carpark, where she picks up a Wifi signal on her i-pad. My PC laptop refuses to consider recognising the signal in such an uncouth environment, so I am reduced to silence, made enforced by Apple’s refusal to be compatible with Windows machines.

With our repair and installation projects holding us back, our departure date for canals unknown is unclear but we are maintaining our normal standards of indulgence (a new benchmark was reached on Singapore Airlines when we had Pate de Fois Gras followed by fresh Lobster Thermidor). 

But wait. Our new refrigerator, an identical twin to the one which had a coronary last year, has arrived at the marina and it’s only been dropped a couple of times, probably from less than three metres above the ground. What are you going to do, try to get satisfaction for an international Internet purchase in France? No, our way of handling it will be to keep the new fridge in its carton for as long as possible. This way we can’t see any damage until the last minute and, a big and, there remains a remote chance  that only the cardboard packing has  been bruised. NEXT : A language  warning  followed  by   Parramatta  Virgins  who   add  to  frantic   shipboard  activity .